Monday, September 16, 2019

Sew Powerful Purse Project


Who doesn’t love to make purses? There’s just something so satisfying about making a project that is pretty, functional and goes with you where you go. So, you can imagine my excitement when I found out Baby Lock was sponsoring the Sew Powerful organization’s purse making project for National Sewing Month; I was tickled to have a really, really good reason to make a few purses!

Skip right on down to your local Baby Lock retailer and find out when their next purse sew-along will be. Click HERE to sign up at a retailer near you and click HERE to read all about this project on the Sew Powerful site. They’ve got free pattern downloads and really great video tutorials. You might even learn a thing or two… I did when I watched them!


It was impossible to make just one! The one above sports a wee hedgie machine embroidery design from my Crafty Hedgies design set - click HERE to see those.

  
You know I can’t make anything without getting my embroidery machine involved, and this project was no exception. As my smart machine knows how to quilt and SEW in the hoop, I let her make the flap and pocket for the purse. Oh my, so fun!


Since you have the flap right there in the hoop with that nice big space, you can do so much so easily! Add embroidery or appliqué, or skip the stippling/quilting included in the design and just add your own fancy fill with your Baby Lock’s IQ feature. You can also piece the front flap fabric before beginning to make it even more interesting!



Want to make a Sew Powerful purse flap and pocket in the hoop? Click HERE to find the embroidery designs. They’re free and include two flaps, one with all-over stippling and one with cross-hatch quilting. The flap designs measure 7.49” x 10.31” and should fit in your 8x12 hoop. The pocket, which is intended for the inside of the purse, measures 4.25” x 6.76” and will fit in your 5x7 hoop.

Let's get started! 😊

Gather your supplies for the purse. Your Baby Lock retailer will have the free pattern and a supply list, but you can also download the pattern at Sew Powerful (click on the Purse Project tab – I used the Beginner Purse Pattern and found the accompanying video tutorial to be very easy to follow).

I love that Baby Lock added Ultra Soft Fusible stabilizer to the purses they are making in store. That stuff is amazing – it’s one of my favorite products as it’s batting AND stabilizer. So, you’ll need some of that if you want to make a nice sturdy flap and purse. I also used No Show Mesh for the flap and a fusible tear-away for the pocket.

To make the flap: Cut one piece of purse flap fabric, No Show Mesh, and Ultra Soft Fusible large enough to fit in the 8x12 hoop. Place the No Show Mesh on the bottom, the Ultra Soft Fusible on top of that (fusible side down), and the fabric on the very top (right side up). Hoop all three layers together, making sure that the fabric is smooth and wrinkle-free. Load the purse flap design into the machine and sew the first stitch sequence; this is the cutting line around the purse. Next is the stippling fill or cross-hatch quilting; this sequence looks great when sewn with a variegated thread. I used Maxi-Lock Swirls for my quilting – such pretty colors! Note: If you wish to fussy-place flap fabric that you have pieced or that has a big, pretty print stitch the first stitch sequence right on the Ultra Soft Stabilizer. You'll be able to see better how to place the fabric. Place the fabric and repeat stitch sequence 1 to tack it down.


After sewing the stippling/quilting, you’re ready to cover the quilted flap with the backing fabric. Place an additional piece of flap fabric WRONG SIDE UP over the flap in the hoop. Make sure it’s large enough to generously cover the flap outline with at least ½” extra fabric all around. As the final stitch sequence is actually a “seam”, you may find it helpful to change your thread to regular sewing thread on the top and bobbin in a color that matches the fabric.
  
Gently hold the fabric in place while you sew the final stitch sequence. The top edge will not be sewn as that is where you will turn the flap right side out. Remove from the hoop and cut out the flap; be sure to cut from the wrong side (stabilizer side) so you can see the complete cutting line. Cut directly ON the outermost stitching line, which was the first stitch sequence outline.


You can use a rotary cutter with a pinked edge or your pinking sheers to cut the flap out… that will effectively clip and notch the seam allowance selvages for you. Or you can just clip and notch the curved ends with your scissors.


Turn it right side out and give it a good press. That was fast, wasn’t it? (This is my kind of project!)


And the back is pretty too!


Okay, set the flap aside and let’s make an inside pocket. Our embroidery machines are perfect for making pockets in the hoop! Click HERE to read my most recent blog post about that and click HERE to read about using the on-board frame tools in your IQ Designer to sew up pretty much any shape, right there in the hoop, easier than pie!

To make the pocket: Cut one piece of pocket fabric large enough to fit in your 5x7 hoop. Cut an additional 2” x 8” piece of the same fabric. Cut a piece of contrast fabric at least 5” x 7”. Fold the 2” wide piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press the fold to crease.
   
Stabilize the larger piece of pocket fabric (cut to fit your hoop) with a nice, crisp fusible tear-away. Hoop the fabric right side up in the 5x7 hoop. Load the pocket design into the machine and sew the first stitch sequence using a thread color that matches but stands out enough that you can see it. (I used gray thread so it would show up in the photo for you.)


You will now have a stitched outline of a box made up of two rectangles – a larger one on the left and a skinny one on the right. Place the folded fabric strip on top of the skinny rectangle on the right, aligning the folded edge with the left side of the skinny rectangle (i.e., aligning the folded edge with the line that’s about ¾” away from the right side of the overall box outline, noted by the black arrow in the photo below). The raw edges of this folded strip should extend past the line noted by the red arrow. Now place the contrast fabric WRONG SIDE UP over the pocket outline, but do not let the right side (see blue arrow) extend past the right edge of the outline (see that red arrow again). You’ll need to lift the folded strip to check that this placement is correct. 


Because you now have a floating piece of fabric that could get hung up or moved with the foot as it sews over it, be sure to tape those areas down with whatever product you like to use for such purposes. (I used Scotch® Magic™ Tape – it tears easily and doesn’t gum up needles.)


After positioning the tape, sew the final stitch sequence. Your stitching line should pass easily over those two taped areas.


Be sure to remove the tape before you cut out the pocket!


Cut out the pocket leaving about ¼” selvage all around the outline stitching. Clip the corners.


Turn the pocket right side out and gently poke out the corners with a point turner tool. Fuse the contrast fabric band down with a bit of fusible web tape.


Now comes the fun part! Fire up the sewing machine and pick a pretty motif to sew across the edge of the pocket band. I love getting to use those lovely little stitches! For this pocket I used the little star Hemstitching motif #3-06 on my Baby Lock Destiny and set the length to 7.0 mm and width to 4.0 mm. 


I love using Maxi-Lock Swirls for all kinds of sewing. Even though it is serger thread is works great for regular sewing and even machine embroidery. And those Swirls colors are just perfect for motif stitching! Click HERE and HERE to see some projects I stitched up with these threads. (The trick is to use a size 12 metallic needle and a thread stand!)


You can use purchased purse/tote strapping for your handle or you can make your own fabric one. The video tutorial Sew Powerful has will show you how to make a super simple one. I like to cut a piece of Ultra Soft Fusible 1” wide by the length specified in the pattern and cover it with fabric. And, of course, use a motif stitch down the middle for a bit of extra pretty!



Follow along with the instructions on the Sew Powerful pattern or video tutorial to finish up your purse, skipping the parts about making the flap and inside pocket since you’ve already done that, yay!


Oh… a few quick tips! This pattern calls for an additional pocket that rests against the front of the purse right under the flap. The pocket fabric is cut twice as long as its finished size and then folded in half with the fold forming the finished top of the pocket. I use this type of quick pocket all the time, but I like to fuse a strip of interfacing at the fold to reinforce that area. This keeps it from getting stretched out with use and makes a nice crisp edge, especially if you plan to top-stitch it.


It's fun to decorate that front pocket with motif stitching too!



I find that the purse lining will fit better into the purse if it’s cut slightly shorter than the purse, so I shaved a bit off the bottom edge of the lining fabric pieces. Some of the purse instructions show leaving the opening for turning in the side of the lining, but I like to have a seam across the bottom and that’s where I leave the opening.

Also, I find it helpful to go ahead and cut the boxes out of the purse and lining fabric pieces so that when I sew the sides and bottom I can back-tack at each end of the seam. This keeps those areas strong and prevents unraveling of the seam. And one more thing – press the seam allowance selvages open before you box the corners! A sleeve board or mini-ironing board works nicely, but to really get those seams flat just press the selvage to one side with the fabric flat on your ironing board; then flip the fabric and flip the selvage edges back out and press again from the other side. It makes those seams nice and crisp!


Thanks for sewing along! I hope you get time to make a few pretty purses and have the satisfaction of knowing you gave some sweet little girls an encouraging gift! 💗

Evy




Thursday, June 6, 2019

Dandy Bandy Pockets



Pockets! Everyone loves pockets, especially wee girls who have things to treasure and tote!


Hidden pockets that are just utilitarian are awesome, but how much fun it is to make pockets that are part of the scenery – right out there, flaunting their prettiness! This is when I LOVE having an embroidery machine. (Okay, that’s an understatement… I always love having an embroidery machine, who am I kidding? You too, right?) Making pockets is a lot less stressful and a lot more fun when made in the hoop. The machine does all the “sewing” for you, and if the pocket has a curved edge, it will be a perfect curved edge! Plus, you can add bits of fancy embroidery on the fly like the little border across the top of this pocket.


Want to make one? Here’s what you’ll need:

Banded Pocket design found HERE (free until June 25, 2019)

  • 1 piece of pocket fabric cut large enough to fit in your 5x7 hoop (this design measures 4.82” x 5.06”), stabilized with a crisp fusible tear-away; I recommend Baby Lock's Tear-Away Firm which you can try a sample of in my package of favorite stabilizers HERE.
  • 1 piece of pocket fabric cut approximately 6" x 7" and interfaced with a very lightweight fusible woven interfacing (Find the perfect interfacing HERE at Farmhouse Fabrics.)
  • 1 piece of contrast pocket band fabric cut approximately 6” x 3” (interface if very lightweight)
  • Sewing thread to match the pocket fabric (bobbin and top)
  • 1” to 2” piece of narrow fusible web tape
  • Embroidery designs of your choice if you choose to embellish the pocket (Find the Woodland Folk designs I used HERE.)
  • Sharp scissors
  • Dritz Point Turner Tool (Find in fine sewing stores and HERE at Farmhouse Fabrics online) 
Stabilize the pocket fabric with crisp fusible tear-away and hoop right side up in the 5x7 (or suitable) hoop. If your pocket fabric is woven, try to keep the grain line of the fabric straight in the hoop. Sew the first stitch sequence. This will be the outside pocket cutting line and horizontal alignment position line for the band.


Place the band fabric wrong side up over the hooped fabric, aligning one long edge approximately ¼” above the horizontal band placement line.


Sew the second stitch sequence. This seam attaches the band fabric to the pocket fabric.

Flip the band fabric right side up over the seam. Use the flat edge of your Dritz Point Turner to crease the seam OR use a mini-iron or small iron to press the seam nice and flat in the hoop on a heat-protected surface. (That’s optional… I’m usually in too big of a hurry to do it, but it’s helpful especially if you are adding embroidery over that area!)



Sew the third stitch sequence to tack down the band fabric.

Now’s your chance to add embroidery! If you have a fancy machine that can scan what’s in your hoop or project the image of your design onto the fabric (I know…WOWSIE!), by all means do that. Click HERE and HERE to see two of those awesome machines by Baby Lock. Otherwise, print a paper template of your design, place it where you want the design to stitch on the pocket, and align the design accordingly. Taking into consideration the seam allowance of the finished pocket, the actual width of the pocket across the top at the band is 4.35”, so make sure the design is centered within that area.


When using a printed template, I find it helpful to use my machine's design tracing tool or perimeter tool to travel to the center and four corner points of my design, dropping the needle (unthreaded) into those points and adjusting accordingly if needed. Click HERE to read a blog post that details those steps clearly.

If the design you are using is dense or covers a large area of the pocket, you may wish to float an additional layer of soft tear-away under the hoop before embroidering the design.

After the embroidery has been completed, change the top and bobbin thread to regular sewing thread in a color that matches the pocket fabric. (You may need to tighten the top tension a bit to keep the stitching even – it’s advisable to test stitch to see what settings work best for your machine.)


Place the 6” x 7” piece of interfaced pocket fabric WRONG SIDE UP over the hooped fabric, generously covering the pocket outline. If your pocket fabric is woven, try to keep the grain lines of this pocket fabric straight and aligned with the grain lines of the fabric in the hoop.


Sew the final stitch sequence; this is the actual pocket outline seam. It will begin on the left side of the pocket just below the band and travel around the pocket, stopping about 1.25” away from where it began, and then travel back to the beginning to create a nice, sturdy, double stitched seam.


Remove the fabric from the hoop. Cut out the pocket by cutting right ON the outside pocket outline stitching (the "pocket cutting outline" from the first stitch sequence) which is visible from the stabilized side of the pocket.


Tear away the stabilizer from within the pocket first. Then you will be able to easily tear off the bit along the selvage edge.


Clip the top corners slightly as shown below. Then clip the curve thoroughly, but be careful not to cut into the stitching.


Turn the pocket right side out through the little opening on the left side. Use the curved end of the Dritz Point Turner tool to smooth out the curve, and use the pointed end to carefully poke out the corners.


Tuck in the selvage edges at the opening to make that side smooth, and press the pocket well. Insert a small amount of fusible web tape at the opening and fuse to close it. Try to keep the fusible tape only on the seam allowance fabric; don’t let it extend into the pocket if you can help it.


Your pocket is ready to attach!

I like to use the shell stitch on my Baby Lock sewing machine to attach pockets. I start with a back-tack with regular straight stitching, switch to the shell stitch, and then when I reach the end point I switch back to a straight stitch so I can back-tack again securely. It’s helpful to experiment on a scrap to get the settings right for your pocket. Here’s a little video of that.



A blanket stitch, some hem stitch motifs, a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch all work great to sew the pockets on too. I find it helpful to stabilize my dress fabric with a block of fusible tear-away behind the area I'm applying the pocket to. After the pocket is attached, I remove the excess stabilizer. Of course, if you want a really beautiful pocket attachment, slip-stitch it in place by hand! Click HERE to see a video about slip-stitching.

Pockets are for treasures and treats!


And wee little hands, of course!

Happy pocket making!

Evy


Monday, May 6, 2019

Peony Pillow Perfection



I’m passionate about pillows! They are so visually appealing with their inviting nature—soft, cheerful and comforting—and so easy to use for quick changes to my décor. Half the fun of throw pillows is displaying them; the other half is making them, and I love making them!

Nancy’s Notions is one of my favorite go-to resources for all kinds of nice pillow making supplies, and they also stock so many great machine embroidery accessories too. It's been delightful to collaborate with them and create this machine embroidered fancy flower pillow to share with you. Let’s get started and make a Peony Perfection pillow!


Gather your supplies:

· 3/4 yard of fashion fabric for the pillow & sewing thread to match (gold)
· 12” square of fashion fabric for the background behind the peony appliqué (white)     
· 6” square of pink appliqué fabric & matching embroidery thread
· 7” square of green appliqué fabric & matching embroidery thread
· 4” square of sheer pink fabric to coordinate with the pink appliqué fabric (silk organza - click HERE to find pretty hand-dyed silk organza fat quarters, wide polyester organza ribbon, or cotton organdy is recommended) & matching embroidery thread
· Clover Wonder Fuse (fusible web)
· Fusible tear-away stabilizer (firm)
· Clover Mini-iron & ironing pad
· Micro-serrated Snippers (scissors with small, very sharp, curved blades)(or to find Embroidery Snips in the Abitofstitch shop click here)
· Nancy’s Notions Showcase Throw Pillow Corner Template
· 16” square of lightweight quilt batting
· 3 buttons
· 2 yards of 7/32” cording to cover or purchased 1/4” covered piping
· 14” pillow form
· 2 strips of 15” x 1” fusible interfacing
· 14” strip of 3/4” wide fusible web tape
· Pretty Peony machine embroidery design by A Bit of Stitch and machine hoop according to the design size as noted in the color chart (Click HERE to find the Pretty Peony design in the Abitofstitch shop)

Find the notions highlighted above at Nancy's Notions. Take this link to see this project on the Nancy's Notions Inspiration page!

Fabrics shown on the sample pillow are from Robert Kaufman’s Yarn Dyed Metallic Linen collection; colors are Sand (gold), Peony (pink), Emerald (green) and Crystal (white).


It’s always a good idea to begin with pre-washed fabrics. This prevents shrinkage later that may cause puckers around your embroidery appliqué designs. So begin by pre-washing all project fabrics for best results.

Prepare the appliqué fabrics (pink and green) by applying a piece of Wonder Fuse fusible web to the wrong side of each fabric square according to the package directions. You will not need to apply fusible web to the sheer fabric as long as it is stiff and crisp. Remove the release paper.


Load the Pretty Peony design into the machine. (Visit Baby Lock to see all the pretty embroidery machines!)

Apply fusible tear-away stabilizer to the wrong side of the 12” square of peony background fabric (white) in an area larger than the hoop. Center the fabric in the hoop, making sure the hoop encloses stabilized fabric. Center the design within the hoop. Follow along with the color chart instructions included with the design and the helpful hints provided here to appliqué the peony design.

For best results use polyester or rayon embroidery thread in colors that match the appliqué fabrics. The following Sulky thread colors match the Robert Kaufman fabrics very nicely: pink 942-1113 and green 942-1287. I used Sulky 942-1055 for the golden flower centers. You will also need a darker shade of pink to match the new color that is created when the sheer overlay is placed over the pink appliqué fabric.


Helpful hints for machine embroidery appliqué!

Most machine embroidery appliqué designs have three parts: The first stitch sequence shows you where the appliqué fabric needs to go. The second stitch sequence, which is a repeat of the first, sews the appliqué fabric into position. After the excess appliqué fabric has been trimmed away, the final stitch sequence “appliqués” or satin stitches the fabric in place. There are lots of variations and special stitches or effects that can be included, but those three steps are the basics. Always read the designer’s notes to be sure you don’t miss any extra steps or special information you’ll need.

The two photos above show the first two steps. The first one shows the outline stitching of the leaves for the peony design. Notice that I am covering the outline stitching with the fusible web backed appliqué fabric—the shiny, fusible side is facing down, and the right side is facing up. In the second photo you can see the second outline stitching. Sometimes it’s hard to see that outline stitching when using matching thread; you may find it helpful to change the thread color so you can see it easily. I find that just plain white or off-white thread works great for most fabrics!

The photos below show the trimming and fusing process. ALWAYS place the hoop on a hard, flat surface to trim, and ALWAYS place it on a hard, flat, heat-protected surface to fuse the appliqué fabric. And finally... when taking the hoop in and out of the machine, ALWAYS hold the hoop by the hoop, not by the fabric in the hoop!


Continue following the appliqué instructions to apply the flower fabric in the same manner. The sheer overlay is the last part of the appliqué. The directions will tell you to stitch the “appliqué material” outline first and then place the sheer fabric over that outline. Hold it gently in place while you sew the “appliqué position” outline as it may not be necessary to fuse this fabric. Then trim away the excess before sewing the last “appliqué” satin stitching. The final stitch sequence will be the little flower centers. They look nice stitched in soft gold.

Watch the video HERE for a demonstration of this machine embroidery appliqué in action!



Pillow Construction:

Before you begin constructing the pillow, you will need to trim the appliquéd peony fabric to 9” square. I find it helpful to cut a piece of tissue paper exactly 9” x 9” in size and lay it over the appliquéd fabric so I can easily center the appliqué design within my square.

You will also need pillow fabric cut into these sizes:

· Two 4” x 9” pieces (for the pillow front frame)
· Two 4” x 15” pieces (for the pillow front frame)
· Two 9.75” x 15” pieces (for the pillow back)

From the remaining pillow fabric, create 2 yards of covered cording. I find that when using cording that measures about 7/32” (5.6mm) in width, a bias strip of 1.25” wide gives me the desired 1/4” selvage edge, which perfectly suits a 1/4” seam allowance.

Use your narrow zipper foot to cover the cord.


Sew the two 4” x 9” pieces to the top and bottom of the peony block with a 1/2” seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open. Sew the two 4” x 15” pieces to each side of the new center block with a 1/2” seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open. You should have a pillow top that looks like the one in the photo below on the right.


Locate the two 1” x 15” strips of fusible interfacing. Fuse a strip to one long edge of each 9.75” x 15” piece as shown in the photo below on the left. Serge or zigzag the interfaced edge and press over 1”.


Quilt the pillow top as desired with lightweight batting. I used my Baby Lock Sashiko machine to quilt the sample pillow. To read more about quilting a project with this machine, click HERE. To see a short video that explains “hopping” with Sashiko quilting, click HERE. As you can see in the photo below, I’m using a very high-tech tool to aid my hopping—masking tape! 


One small, nit-picking detail that I’ve always had a bit of a struggle with is the way the corners look on my finished throw pillow. No matter what, they never seem to fill out prettily with a pillow form. Usually, the corners stick up like little ears or fold and pucker. Not pretty! I used to stick extra fiberfill batting into the corners just to make them look better, but not anymore! I just discovered the Nancy’s Notions Showcase Throw Pillow Corner Template, and (wow!) it’s such a cool, simple solution to bunchy, awkward pillow corners!

Just place this nice, heavy, plastic template on the corner of the pillow, trace around it, and trim and construct as usual. Voila!  Perfect corners on your throw pillows!



I used my serger to serge along the traced corners, thereby removing the excess corner fabric and giving my pillow top edge a nice, neat, non-raveling finish while I continued working.  If you do not wish to serge the edge, simply use the Corner Template tool as a ruler and trim off the excess with a rotary cutter.



You will want a 1/4” seam allowance for the outside seam joining the pillow top to the pillow back. If your piping already has a 1/4” selvage, you’re good to go. Otherwise, trim it to 1/4”. Pin the piping around the edge of the pillow top. Clip the selvage edges of the piping at the pillow corners. This will keep the piping from bunching up or pleating while you baste it on.


Pin the piping all the way around the pillow, beginning and ending at the bottom edge of the pillow top. Open the piping fabric to expose the cord and clip the cord so that the two ends meet. Leave about 1” of piping fabric remaining and trim off any additional excess, as shown in the photo above on the left. Fold the piping fabric’s raw edge under, tuck the beginning end of the piping into the folded end, and bump the cord ends together (photo above, right). Re-pin (photo right) and sew the piping to the pillow front.

Do use your narrow zipper foot, but don’t worry about getting too close to the piping. You’ll have time to do that when you sew the backing on.

Prepare the pillow back by sewing three buttonholes evenly spaced on the right side of one interfaced folded edge pillow fabric piece. On the other piece, fuse the interfaced folded edge to the wrong side of the fabric with a strip of fusible web tape.

Overlap the buttonhole fabric over the non-buttonhole fabric, interfaced buttonhole flap on top of interfaced non-buttonhole flap. Make sure that your pillow back will still measure 15” - don’t overlap too much.

Baste the edges together at the overlap on each side, as shown in the photo above.


Helpful hints about buttonholes!

When using an automatic buttonhole foot for your Baby Lock sewing machine, make the buttonhole a little neater by using a button that is very slightly smaller than the buttons you plan to sew on.  I love the rounded double ended buttonhole. Those round ends look so neat! If you want to cord your buttonholes to make them even nicer, use the straight end buttonholes and click HERE to read about cording buttonholes.


 A chisel buttonhole cutter is the best tool for cutting open buttonholes. If you don’t have one, be sure to put a pin at both ends of the buttonhole where you need to stop cutting before slicing them open. I like using a nice, sharp seam ripper to open my buttonholes, but I’m careful to always have a pin in place so I don’t slice right on through the end!

Sulky Thread’s Petite 12 wt. cotton thread is a great choice for sewing on buttons. It comes in many lovely colors and is strong, yet soft.


Pin the pillow front to the pillow back, right sides together. You won’t need to use the Corner Template tool to trim the pillow back, because you’ll want to sew from the pillow front side which is already trimmed. Use your narrow zipper foot and sew as close as possible to the piping, especially at the corners. You can see in the photo above on the right that I am making sure my seam is within the seam that tacked the piping in place. If your piping seam allowance was 1/4” as suggested, this seam allowance will be about the same.


Before turning the pillow right side out, I like to serge the seam allowance selvages. This is a bit tricky with piping and corners, so if you decide to do so, serge carefully. Another option is a simple zigzag finish. Finishing the inside seam allowance will make your pillow wear and wash better.

Finished! I hope you enjoy your Peony Perfection pillow as much as I’m enjoying mine!

Thanks for reading!

Evy