Thursday, August 4, 2016

Ruffle Up Baby Bonnet, an Embellisher project!

Who can resist a fluffy, ruffly bonnet around a sweet baby face? Definitely not me! I made these bonnets a long time before Baby Kate arrived, but just recently rediscovered them while cleaning out a bunch of old trunk show treasures. So glad Baby Kate doesn’t mind modeling! The raw edged silk organza ruffles are created with Baby Lock's Embellisher. Coolest way ever to make ruffles!

I found my pattern, too. If you would like to download it, click here. There are no instructions, just the pattern pieces in PDF form for you to print. But follow along with this blog post and I’ll give you the basics for ruffling, embroidering, and constructing if you’d like to make ruffled bit of pretty for your own wee one.

You do not have to add embroidery, but it sure does make the bonnet extra special! I used the rose lineup from my Petite Baby Borders collection. Click here to see them. This little rose set is also found in my Petites collection, click here to see that set.

First of all, I traced my bonnet pattern onto my fabric. (I find it easier to do the embroidery on big pieces of fabric rather than cut-out, smaller shapes.) I marked lines for my needle felted ruffles on both pieces, straight on the bonnet side and curved around the shape of the bonnet back as shown below.

Next I stabilized the fabric and embroidered the rose designs, centering the back group in the middle of the bonnet back and centering lines of roses between the bottom two marked lines on the bonnet side as shown above. Once the embroidery was finished I removed the stabilizer and cut out the pieces and stay stitched both pieces 1/4" from the raw edge. Then I cut several nice long strips of bias cut silk organza 2” wide each for the ruffles. It takes about twice the length of fabric to create a ruffle for needle felting.

(Note: If you are using very fine fabric for your bonnet, you may need to stabilize the fabric before felting the ruffles and sewing them down with the motif stitching. Soft tear-away or Baby Lock's No Show Mesh will work fine. If you use this for your embroidery you can leave it in place as you apply the ruffles. The excess stabilizer should be removed before construction.)

If you happen to have a 7 needle Baby Lock Embellisher, just get right to it and needle felt the strips of silk organza along your marked lines. If you have a 12 needle Embellisher, you may wish to remove all but the first 3 needles right in the center at the front of the head. (This is easiest done by removing the head and then removing the needles. You can use all 12 needles, but you probably should cut your bias strips slightly wider.) Hold the ruffle gently and guide it over the marked lines, taking care not to stretch it length-ways. Encourage it toward the felting needles; don’t hold back on it. Nice thing about ruffling with the Embellisher is that if you mess up, whiffft! Pull it up and put in a new one, just like that!

After completing my ruffles, I stitched down the center of each one – on top of the needle felted path – with a nice wide, pretty heirloom motif stitch and matching embroidery thread. That made the ruffles permanent.  

I had already marked the center back of both the bonnet back and side fabric pieces for lining up my embroidery; if you haven’t, you might want to do that now.

I sewed the bonnet back lining and ruffled bonnet back piece together at the lower edge, carefully keeping the ruffles lying open and flat at the edge. Next I created a 3/8" casing and cut a 6” piece of elastic, sewed it at one side, and pulled up the elastic until there was 3” excess elastic hanging out. Then I stitched through the elastic and fabric to secure it at the side and clipped off the excess.

Next I stitched the those two bonnet back pieces together around the outside about ¼” from the edge. They are facing wrong sides together. 

I decided to create my own embroidered fabric for the front ruffle by stitching a scalloped satin stitch motif and a lacy rose motif (chosen from my Baby Lock Ellisimo's on-board motif stitch selections) along a straight piece of silk organza stabilized with wash-away stabilizer. When finished stitching, I trimmed away the excess past the scalloped satin stitched edge, soaked out the stabilizer, and – when dry – trimmed the ruffle to 2.5” wide. It was a snap to needle felt this ruffle onto the front edge of the bonnet, but one could also just gather it and sew it by machine as well. Narrow rolled hems finish the ruffle ends.

So, the back is complete; now I needed to sew the side lining and ruffled fabric together. Keeping the ruffles lying as flat as possible at the edges and OUT of the seam allowance areas at the front corners, I stitched the lining to the ruffled side fabric piece (right sides together) along the two short ends and across the front, enclosing the added front ruffle in the seam. This seam began ½” away from the back edge. After stitching I trimmed the seam allowance selvage to about ¼” everywhere except at those ½” bits at the back edges. Then I clipped the corners, turned right side out, and pressed along the seam. (Helpful hint - Check those ruffles inside before you trim! Make sure they are not caught where they shouldn't be.)

This piece is now open at the back. Next I pinned the back edge of the ruffled fabric side piece (only, not the lining too) to the lined bonnet back piece.

After sewing those two pieces together, I trimmed the seam allowance selvage to about ¼”. (Check those ruffles again before you trim!)

If you stand on your head a bit, you can flip the lining up over the ruffled fabric at the bottom back edges and sew right sides together for a short way and then turn under and pin the rest. This will help keep the bottom ends neat. If you don’t want to stand on your head, simply fold under the seam allowance selvage of the bonnet side lining, pin over the seam where the back bonnet joins the side bonnet, and hand sew to secure.

All that’s left is to sew on some ribbon ties. I made a little loop on one end of my ribbon and whipped it in place on both front bottom edges.

Tah-da! A really ruffly baby bonnet! Here's a pink version on my dear niece's baby girl, isn't she precious!

And here's a photo of the finished bonnet on a stand. You can see the detailing a bit better.

So, grab your Baby Lock Embellisher and get ruffling! You won't believe how fast it can do that!


Sunday, July 10, 2016

The Cottage Mama's Tulip Petal Sun Hat made reversible

I just fell in love with The Cottage Mama’s Tulip Petal Sun Hat pattern, and since Baby Kate was heading to the beach for the first time, of course she needed Gramma to make her one! I had trouble deciding which cute Riley Blake print to use for the outside, so I decided to make my Tulip Petal hat reversible. Two hats in one!

Want to make one too? Go to The Cottage Mama’s blog and look for her “Free Summer Sewing Patterns for Girls” post. Scroll down to find the “Tulip Petal Sun Hat” pattern (click on the words written under the hat photo on her blog). Then download the hat pattern, print it, and follow along Lindsay’s excellent instructions in her blog post to begin your hat.

Note: Baby Kate is 5 months and although she is a very healthy sized baby, I did have to resize this pattern smaller to fit her. I just printed the PDF at 80% instead of 100% and that did the trick. For smaller babies, you might want to print a few pattern pieces out at different percentages to see what will work best.

You know I would "need" to put embroidery on one side - No kidding, right? That was easy as I had the perfect beach themed baby designs! The little sandcastle is from my Baby’s Beach Fun collection. Click HERE to see that whole set. Psst! This set is ON SALE July 10 - 15 just for you, dear readers! 

After joining three pieces together I clipped my seam allowance selvages and pressed them open using my Clover mini iron. Oh my, that little iron works so much better for little curved areas than my regular iron! Just spritz the fabric with water - voila, steam!

It’s helpful to print paper templates of your embroidery designs when you need to be precise with placement. (Unless you have a Baby Lock Destiny of course, then you can just scan the fabric in the hoop and drag the design on the machine screen to where you need it to be - Oh. My. Goodness, that is so easy!) Paper templates usually have the horizontal and vertical centering marks to make placement easy. I wanted the sandcastle to sit right at the crown, so I lined up the bottom of the design so that it would be where the brim would break naturally. I found it easier to stick my hat portion to stabilizer that had been sprayed lightly with temporary spray adhesive than to hoop it.

Sans built-in camera, the best way to align a design is by using the on-board design placement tool – the little trial key that allows you to trace the outline of the design by traveling to certain points. Use that key to find the center, top/bottom and left/right points on the horizontal/vertical placement lines. Drop the needle (by pressing the needle down button) into each point, moving from point to point. You will easily be able to see if your design is correctly aligned and can make adjustments as necessary with the edit/move tool in the machine if the needle doesn't land on point. Note: If your machine does not have this trial key, use your hoop placement grid and paper template to correctly align the design. CLICK HERE to read more about aligning designs using templates and/or trial keys.

Sometimes when you stitch very light colored thread on printed background fabric, the print tends to color the stitched area in a not-so-nice way. I solve this issue by using "Easy Stitch" undercover material. (Click HERE to see more about that.) In this design, part of the sand stitches below the actual castle and I didn’t need undercover material there, so I allowed those stitches to sew first. When the machine began stitching the underlay stitches tracing the shape of the castle, I stopped the machine, cut the thread, and placed a piece of undercover material over that area. 

I closely watched the design stitch all of the underlay stitching, stopped the machine right as it began the fill of the castle, and carefully removed as much of the undercover material before I continued. (It’s always a good idea to test stitch designs so you know how they will proceed!)

This undercover material is soft and very light, so it won’t change the look or feel of the finished design. Best of all, any bits that stick out past the design can be melted away with the tip of your mini iron! (Psst…Baby Lock will soon be carrying this product, yay!)

I decided to leave the opening for turning in one of the hat’s side seams instead of the brim. (I was trying to find the straightest point, and that seemed easier to me, but you can put this opening anywhere you choose.) I like to stay stitch openings through which I am planning on man-handling fabric as I have the terrible tendency to be rough, so I did that first, sewing a line of stitches just on the outside of where the seam allowance was. When I sewed the seam, I began on each side a slight distance before the stay stitching line ended. I clipped my curves once again, even at the opening.

Once again, the mini-iron came in handy for pressing that seam allowance selvage, allowing me to very precisely press the slight curve of the opening. The stay stitching needs to be slightly to the inside so it won’t show on the outside when finished. This gave me a nice, sturdy spot to turn my hat right side out.

Once the hat was complete, pressed well and opening slip stitched closed, I sewed two tiny buttonholes using my Baby Lock buttonhole foot through all layers at the brim area of the hat, one on each side, positioned so they will sit right above the ears.

A long length of ¼” grosgrain ribbon threaded through the buttonholes and up around the brim at the back made a perfect, easily removable and replaceable tie. If you do not add embroidery, or if your embroidery is lower on the brim, you could allow the ribbon to lie across the front of the hat or even over the top. Either way, it keeps the hat on the baby in a breeze!

Thank you, Lindsay, for this great free pattern! I have a feeling I’m going to be making many more Tulip Petal hats as baby Kate sure seems to be enjoying her first one!

Thanks for reading! Stay tuned – more fun summer sewing projects coming up! Please feel free to leave me a note and tell me if you enjoyed this post and what you'd like to read MORE about :-)


Monday, June 20, 2016

Common Threads 2016!

Oh my goodness! What happens when you put half a hundred creatives in one room for two days? MAGIC! That's what! 

The Baby Lock sponsored "Common Threads" event is, for me, THE sewing event of the year and probably the most wildly original event ever invented. Why? Because they invite a wide variety of sewing enthusiasts from all over - authors, teachers, editors, bloggers, fabric designers, the list goes on, and then they just lay out their toys (, I mean Machines...) and stand back and watch what happens! Well, not quite, but that's pretty close. 

You might be sitting next to a fabric company exec and she is making the same project you are. You can't figure out something and she leans over and says, "here, press this button" or the author on the other side of you says "oops, I think I did that wrong" and you lean over and say, "here, I'll help you fix that." THAT'S the magic. And what is so wonderful about it to me is that this kind of magic happens not only there, at this super event, but in our own sewing community, each and every day. We stitchers understand the power and joy of giving, don't we? I am so thankful to be part of the sewing community and for YOU because you are part of it too!

Here's little glimpse of this year's Baby Lock Common Threads fun -

The people, oh my, each and every one so unique, so talented and so special. Top right, staff at Baby Lock who seriously rock in the talent department, wish I had a pic of all of them, but here is Mary Polanc and Christine Hong, top left. Under that on the left, Heather Valentine of The Sewing Loft. Next to her, Melissa Mora of Melly Sews and above in the top right corner is Becky Vandenberg of Becky Marie Designs from Riley Blake Fabrics. She designed the fabric used for the purse class project - super cute science fabric - it was so cool to meet her. (I can't wait to see what marvelous fabric she dreams up next!) Riley Blake Designs sponsored this event by providing all the fabrics for the projects AND extra fabric for us to play with during open-sew. This fabric company has won my heart. Not only do they have an amazing offering of fabrics, they also have an amazing sense of community and are owned by the nicest people ever. 

Catching up with old friends and meeting new! On the right, that's Patty Young of Mod Kids, Vanessa Wilson of Crafty Gemini (goodness, the stuff that girl knows!), Heather and Melissa again. All of these sweeties are so kind and so patient in helping this social media dinosaur (me!) get a bit more up to speed - and that's a challenge let me tell you. I am humbled by their friendship. And I met the most amazingly talented girl - Truly Alvarenga. See that dress? She whipped that up Thursday evening. Yep. AND she is as nice as she is talented! Funny fact we learned, Truly's parents bought the farm that Pam Damour of Pam Damour Designs grew up on, and no, they didn't know each other until they met at Common Threads, how's cool is that! I'm pretty sure a beautiful friendship is in store for those two dears, don't you?

Lindsay Wilkes of The Cottage Mama brought us the a heart warming class, "Little Dresses for Africa" and yes, we were all VERY determined to get our dresses done, even those of us, ahem, who ended up sewing way after class because they spent too much time talking during. (I won't mention names.) Then Sara Gallegos showed us how to make the cutest serger bag on the Ovation. Zippers put in with the cording foot, on the SERGER! With a decorative edge! 

I was honored to teach this year, and what fun that was! Check out these fashionable fabric shopper purses. Appliqued and then stippled on the Destiny. (How do you like that purple hair? Ha! That made my day.) Stefanie Knaus of Girl Inspired made my day too, she really enjoyed her venture into machine embroidery. I know she will be doing beautiful things with that soon on her blog and I can't wait to see :-)

And then there were the photographers, bless them. They followed us around all day and were rather good sports about us tripping over their cords and tripod legs...even got into the spirit of things too - as you can see! Some of the nicest, most patient guys ever. (No, Gym is not table dancing, I don't think, but he sure had our attention, ha!)

Some of my favorite moments - the ice cream parlor (yes we were shortly groaning); the teeny tiny mouse guarding the cord hole in the wall (just hanging out there, discovered when I had to dive under my table to find my seam ripper. Did I say seam ripper? Oops. I mean, un-sewing tool) and getting to show off Sassy Girl to Amy Smart of Diary of a Quilter. (I can't WAIT to see what Amy does with that dear machine, cause I know it's going to be wonderful!)

And that's a wrap! No event is truly ended until there's a selfie, right? THIS is what a group selfie looks like from the other end :-)

This is a really brief summary of two super days, but guess what!? You can join the fun and see lots more by visiting Baby Lock's Common Threads 2016 . I know you'll see folks you know AND there's stuff to win too, YAY!!! Go See! 

Thank you Baby Lock - you ROCK at putting Love into the "Love of Sewing!"


Friday, June 17, 2016

Fabric Shopping, oh yeah! A Baby Lock Destiny Project

I’ve been hearing from some of you new Baby Lock Destiny owners - you are just as wowed by that sweet machine as I am! Here's a new class project hot off the press, want to make it? Read on!

For starters, let me tell you how much I love that the Destiny has an ACTUAL CAMERA in the machine! Oh my goodness. What a brilliant idea. You can take a photo of what is in your hoop and then SEE what you are doing to it right on the screen! Add lettering? Makes it a snap. Add embroidery on a very specific spot? A snap! What about adding stippling around a design? A double super snap! How cool is that? Let’s do it!

My finished purse is approximately 8.5” x 11” in size. I started with a nice, big block of fabric – big enough to fit in my 8x12 hoop. That gave me plenty of room to add stippling around a 5x7 design. So choose your fabric, embroider your chosen design, remove the stabilizers, and press well.

The design I used is the “Fabric Shopper” from my Sewing Girls collection. All the fabrics are from Riley Blake Designs.

Cut a piece of quilt batting and No Show Mesh stabilizer slightly larger than the 8x12 hoop. Place the embroidered fabric piece on top of that, and hoop all three layers together. Don’t stretch it, but make sure all layers are smooth and taut. Center the design within the hoop. Use the hoop grid to determine the best placement, centering the design within the grid.

Okay, you are ready to add stippling!

Go to IQ. Click on the machine menu at the top of the screen. Choose “show hoop” and click the arrows until you see the 11- ¾” x 7 -7/8” hoop. Click OK. You should be able to see the outline of the hoop on the screen.

Next, click on the scan button (that’s the one with the flowers – center photo above) under the camera icon on the top left hand corner of the screen. Make sure nothing is going to impede the movement of the hoop, (including you!) and click OK to scan. You should now see a grayed out photo of your hooped fabric. There is a little sliding arrow immediately under the scanned photo on your screen. Slide that arrow to the left to adjust the image so you can see it better (see photo above on the right).

Click on the fill box next to the pencil, then click the grid box below it. On the next screen, choose --/-- (no line), then click OK.

Click the pencil. Use your stylus to trace the girl. Draw RIGHT ON TOP of the edge of the design. You don’t need to draw all the way up inside the legs of the girl or fabric table; just swoop up there a little. Make sure the line you draw ends where you began. It must meet and complete the shape. You should be able to see the shape you drew in the little box at the top right hand corner of the screen (see photo above on the right).

Click the shapes icon (circle/square), choose the square, and click OK.

Click on the size icon and then use the arrow keys to resize the box to fit the hoop. The box does not need to be as tall as the hoop; half an inch below and above the top and bottom of the hoop is about right if you are using a 5x7 design. The box should fit the width of the hoop, though. Just don’t let it extend past the hoop outline.

Click the fill icon, then click the grid box below it (see photo above on the top left). On the next screen, choose the stipple setting (circled in pink in the photo above on the right) and choose red, then click OK. You could choose any color, but red is easy to see.

Now click anywhere on the screen between the box and the traced girl. You should see a stipple pattern surrounding the girl design. If you see just a big box of stipple with NO cutout for the girl, that means the line you drew around the girl was not complete or had a weird bit that didn’t connect. Click the “un-do” (back-wards arrow) at the bottom of the screen to un-do the stippled box and the traced girl shape. Start again at #4 and repeat the above steps.

When the stipple is set correctly, the shape you drew around the girl should be blank inside with just the stipple pattern showing around her. The stipple will look wonky! Don’t worry, that’s just a place-holder. It will be pretty in a minute!

If you wish, click the pencil icon and draw another shape inside arm/fabric/body to fill in that area. Once again, trace right on the shape of the design and then click inside the area you just drew to assign stipple there (see photo above on the right).

When you are happy with your work click Preview, then set stipple spacing on the next page and click OK. I like a 5.0 mm spacing for the stipple, but you can experiment and see what you like best.
Finally, click Set and then OK. A message will appear telling you that this data will not be saved past this point. That’s okay because you are heading to embroidery! Go ahead and click OK, then Set, and OK again until you come to the screen that has Embroidery at the bottom. Once you click on Embroidery you will be able to move the stippling around if you need to. Just click Edit and Move. Either touch the design and move directly on the screen or use your arrow buttons.

Your background fabric in the hoop will show up on the screen. Don’t worry if it doesn’t all show. As long as you can see the stippling you created and have the right size hoop for that stippling, you are good to go. Stitch the stippling!

Create a solid back piece by following the same steps to make just a box, with no traced around design in the center. Hoop another piece of fabric/batting/No Show Mesh stabilizer, and stipple the purse back piece. The girl design background image probably will still appear. You can turn off the background image on page 9 in machine menu.
Use regular sewing thread or quilting thread for the stippling. I love Madeira’s Aerofil thread for stippling in the embroidery machine.

Now let's construct the purse:

Trim the front and back pieces to 8.5” x 11”. (It’s okay if you end up trimming off a bit of stippling.) Cut two lining fabric pieces 8.5” x 10.75”. You will also need a zipper, a clip-on chain purse handle, and 3” of skinny ribbon (grosgrain works best). I find it’s easier to apply a zipper that’s a good bit longer than I actually need. So for this project I used a 12” zipper, matching it to the purse fabric.

Place the zipper wrong side up, aligned with the top edge of one purse side (see top left photo below). Place one lining piece wrong side up on top, zipper sandwiched in between and top edges aligned, and use your Wonder Clips to fasten the layers together.

Use a narrow zipper foot to sew through all layers close - but not too close - to the zipper; it’s best to leave at least 1/8” gap between the stitching line and the zipper teeth so that the zipper will open easily later. Open out the lining and purse piece flat. Pull the lining over the seam allowance selvage flat and smooth. The zipper will be on top of the purse side, wrong side up. Top stitch the lining to the seam allowance selvage a fat 1/8” (no more than ¼”) from the seam. Make sure the lining is pulled smooth and taut as you sew (see bottom right photo above).

Repeat these same steps to apply the purse fabric and lining fabric to the other zipper side as shown below on the top left and right. Take care to align the purse pieces with each other at the top edges.

On ONE purse side (front or back), sew two small ribbon loops directly under the zipper at the top of the purse - one on each side, loop facing in, raw ribbon edges facing out past the selvage edge of the purse side (see bottom left photo above.)

I used a seam allowance of ½”. Keep your seam allowance in mind as you are tacking the ribbon loops in place. You will need at least ¼” of loop extending past the stitching line when the two purse sides are sewn together.

Don’t forget to open the zipper a little more than half way before you sew up the sides!

Align the purse pieces with each other and the lining pieces with each other. Make sure the open zipper ends are aligned, and Wonder Clip the pieces together.

Sew the purse/purse sides and lining/lining sides together with a ½” seam allowance, leaving a 5-6” opening in the bottom of the lining.
Note the arrows in the photo above. For best results you may find it helpful to begin sewing AT the zipper and continue down one side of the quilted purse fabric to the bottom edge. Stop, begin again AT the zipper and sew down the other side. Then sew across the bottom edge to finish the quilted purse side half. Begin again AT the zipper, sew down to the opening in the bottom of the lining, then begin AT the zipper again and repeat. The zipper tape will be caught in the lining seams. You do not need to sew through the teeth of the zipper on the quilted side – just sew up to it as close as you can.

Clip the corners and trim away the excess zipper tape. Reach inside the lining opening and wiggle the zipper open the rest of the way. Turn the purse right side out. Clip on the handle. Voila! You just made a quilted purse!

See how easy it is to add stippling to an embroidery design with your Baby Lock Destiny and make a really fun project! Isn't that cool? Now go play with that beautiful machine of yours!


Friday, May 27, 2016

Oh My Stars!

My house seemed woefully short of Memorial Day decorations this year. (Good thing I have a room full of machines that can fix that, eh?) So I made a little quilted flag from some of my favorite red, white and blue Riley Blake fabrics.

Lydia (Telafante blog) had made the cutest felt star banner with the star design from the Happy Day Motifs for baby Kate, and that gave me an idea for the perfect finish to my flag. 

I wanted my stars to look PERFECT on the back, exactly as they did on the front. Truly double-sided, in other words. But our embroidery machines make a knot on the wrong side at the beginning and end of a design. Not so pretty on double sided things, argh.  Want to find out how I fixed that? Read on!

First of all I began with Baby Lock’s Ultra Soft Fusible hooped fusible side up in my 8x12 Destiny hoop. I cut two pieces of white wool/rayon felt about an inch larger all around than the stitching field of my grouped star designs.

I stuck one felt piece to the back of the hooped Ultra Soft, centered within the design area, held fast with just a wee bit of temporary spray adhesive. Then I smoothed the other felt piece on top, directly over the one on back. You can see through the Ultra Soft enough to line them up.

Next, I threaded my machine in top AND bobbin with matching regular sewing thread. I used blue for some stars and red for the others. These designs are simple bean-stitched outlines (hence the name “Motifs”) and they have an applique outline for the purpose of knowing where to apply them should you wish to do that. For this project I didn’t need that first stitch sequence, so I simply skipped ahead for each star directly to the bean-stitched outline.

I turned my End Color Trim and Jump Stitch Trim functions OFF. 

Once the hoop was in the machine, I pressed the GO button until the machine traveled to the beginning point of the first star design. I stopped the machine, raised the presser foot, and then lowered and raised the needle while I held the top thread tail so I could catch and pull up the bobbin thread. (It’s helpful if you don’t cut the bobbin thread in the little cutter next to the bobbin case; just catch it and leave a tail - then you’ll have more thread to catch.)

As soon as I could see a bit of bobbin thread appear above the fabric, I used my tweezers to pull a nice long bobbin thread tail to match the top thread tail. Then I lowered the presser foot and began stitching the first star (after advancing to the bean-stitched outline first).

I held on to the thread tails while the machine stitched out the first star, moving them aside to keep them out from under the path of the presser foot.

When the design finished, the machine stopped with the needle down. I raised the needle, raised the foot and pulled the top thread until I had a nice long tail again. I clipped the thread tail at the felt, right under the needle. Then I lowered the needle into the felt, holding the top thread tail, and then raised the needle again. Pulling on the top thread tail firmly, I tugged until I got a little loop of bobbin thread pulled above the felt.

I pulled the loop nice and big, noticing which end was attached and which end could still be pulled, and then carefully clipped the end that could still be pulled right at the felt under the needle. Now I had two thread tails on top of the felt once again. With the original two I began with, that made four thread tails. That star was finished!

In moving on to the next star I quickly realized I needed to begin with a long bobbin thread tail again, so I removed the hoop and pulled a longer tail from the bobbin again. Then I repeated the same steps to complete my next star.

Once again pulling the bobbin thread up, holding the two thread tails while that star stitched, etc.

After all the stars were stitched I rough cut them out, being careful not to cut my thread tails. Then I threaded all four thread tail strands into the eye of a needle and wove the thread tails between the layers of felt to hide them, clipping off the excess.

My star was as pretty on the back as it was on the front - see, here's the back:


Two strands of Sulky’s Petites 12 wt. thread became hanging cords, attaching my pretty stars to my little flag with simple knots on the ends.

Find the Happy Day Motifs here - lots more pretties you can make with those designs!

I don’t know about you, but I’m seeing stars :-)

Happy Stitching, y’all!